Wristbands are such a fun fashion accessory! This free crochet pattern is fast and easy which makes it a great beginner crochet project and you can make it longer if you want it to be an arm band instead of a wrist band.
Wristbands – Free Crochet Pattern
Beware the size or yarn you use will totally change the look of your wrist band! The white wristband was made using a thick acrylic yarn and the blue wristband was made using a thinner yarn.
Turn, skip spaces and SC 13
*Chain 2, (3DC in same space, skip 3) x3, 4DC
**Chain 2 (3DC in same space (working bead on 2nd half of the 2nd dc) x4
Repeat * & ** rows, alternating so that the beads are all on one side of the project. When you’re finished you’ll have 13 rows total. (6** and 7*)
Chain 1, turn, 13SC (repeat for as many rows as you need for the wrist band to overlap enough to fit your wrist (or arm if you’re choosing to turn this into an armband instead of a wristband)
Sew on snaps or the closure of your choice and enjoy showing of your stylish wrist band 🙂
VIDEO TRANSCRIPT – Wristbands
Are you admiring my armband (wristband)? It is beautiful I know, because I made it. But don’t because I’m gonna show you how to make one too. Modern Homemakers video intro and theme song. Ok all you need is yarn, whatever color you feel like doing. Some sort of contrasting bead, um I think I used 24 for this project, math! Have at least 30 ready to string on your project and make sure that it’s big enough that it can fit on the yarn.
Like it has a big enough hole in the bead. And then you need an H crochet hook. You need snaps, really I guess you could use Velcro or buttons or whatever you feel like but snaps are what I used in this project and they make it really easy to open and close. And you need a needle and thread and some sort of complimentary color like white to white. So that you don’t see, you know your sewing stuff.
And if you want to go print off the pattern to follow along there’s a link in the description to go back to modern homemakers. So before you crochet a single stitch you’ve got to get these beads on the yarn. You can use a like creweling type needle if you want but I find you may have to lick it but generally if you just twist the end of the yarn you’ll be able to work that bead through as long as your beads are big enough. Once again shoot for like 30 or so beads so you’ve got some to spare.
Just because it makes me comfortable to have that buffer. It’s really hard to try to add them later. You don’t want to have to unwind a whole ball of yarn just to add some beads on. So once you’re done with that we’ll move on to the next step. So we’ve got all of our beads fed on here and you just kind of want to push them down and don’t think about them, keep them out of your way.
We’ve got our H crochet hook and we’re going to go ahead and chain 15. 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15 and then we’re going to skip these first two, so skip this one, skip this one, and we’re going to go into the third from the end and do a single crochet. So one single crochet and we’re going to work 13 total. So one, two, three, we’ll come back when we get to the end. Let me go ahead and chain one, and turn and then going in this first one we’re going to do thirteen single crochet across again.
Now we’re going to start getting a little more interesting. We’re going to chain two. We’re going to turn the whole project and we’re going to do three double crochet in the same space. So one two three, you can see my beads are starting to creep up on me so I’m going to slide them down. And then what we’re going to do is skip three spaces so 1,2,3, skip and then we’re going to repeat that 3 times. So 3 double crochet in the same space so 1,2,3 you can see we’re creating just a nice little space where you can have skin showing through your thing.
1.2.3. and then skip, 1,2,3, and then do another, 1,2,3 skip 3 1,2,3 . And in this last space we’re going to work 4 double crochet in the same space so 1,2,3,4. So that there you can see is very repetitive. Now for our next thing we’re going to chain 2, and we’re going to do 3 double crochet in the space, like the space between here, and in the midst of the second one, we just did one double crochet and we’re going to go in and work half of this next double crochet and then we’re going to work in a bead.
So I brought one bead up here so I’ve done half of the double crochet and I’m going to go and it just kind of works right in there. And then I’m going to do one just plain double crochet right there. You can see how it just sits in the middle of that cluster. And then we’re going to go in this next space right here same thing. And we’re going to do a double crochet do half, so I’ll do that again, wrap around, go in, grab the thread, wrap around and go through 2, so just half way through that double crochet.
We’re going to grab another bead. Just kind of work it down, sliding it down, and then that one is going to go in front too. And then one more double crochet just regular. See how I just kind of pushed the bead to the side there. You tell that bead who’s boss. And then we’re going to do that in the next two spaces as well. So, double crochet, half of a double crochet, and this is the basis of the whole project. Being able to do this little bit with a bead, so push the bead to the side, one more double crochet.
You can see we’re almost there we need one more bead, and that’s gonna be right over here. So the second double crochet, grab a bead work it in, third, whooo. Ok, this next row, basically those two rows we’re gonna repeat it 12 times (I meant to say 13) we’re just only going to put beads on one side of it because the last thing you want is this poking you in the wrist. OK, I am done doing the beaded and the non-beaded rows. If you count you’ll have 1,2,3,4,5,6 rows of the beads and 1,2,3,4,5,6,7, rows without beads 13 total.
Anyway, I just wanted to show you the difference. Same crochet hook, same pattern, just the thickness, the weight of the yarn like this was a thinner yarn and this was an acrylic yarn and make sure you know what look you’re going for. I mean this is still cool but I have to say I’m still partial to my original. I like the slightly narrower one. So just make sure, I mean you might want to decrease one of the rows or just you know figure out which way you want it to be before you get started, because I really do like this first one I made better and it was with a thinner yarn, but this is what it’s going to look like with an acrylic yarn.
It’s going to be bigger. So, I’ve got those all in there, and the next step if you look on this one we are just getting something that we can sew our snaps to and it’s basically based on your wrist size. So, I have a pretty big wrist, so what I need to get my snaps around is going to be more than if you have a small wrist. So like test this right here this is the bigger crochet hook (I meant to say yarn) this is pretty close to where it needs to be just because the yarn was thicker. So, anyway this next step you make it as many rows or as few rows as you need and it’s simply just chaining one, and doing 13 single crochet across.
So in this original one I did five rows, but I’m making this one for a friend so I’m just gonna do one or two rows because it’s already so much bigger. So we’ll come back in a second with that. Oops, I should have gone chain 1, skip and then in ‘cause it’s looking wacky. Anyway , we’ll be back in a second. I can’t decide how big to make this because I’m going to give it away. I only did 2 here and there’s actually such a difference here in the size of the yarn that I had five before but I’m going to go ahead and take it down to just one row so that it’s smaller because she’s got a smaller wrist.
And we’re going to go ahead and cut and tie that off. Crafts, it’s always a challenge. It’s always different. Ok, and then I won’t make you watch me hide that we’ll do that later. But we’re going to take our snaps and you figure out how you want to do it, um, on the back side here but you could have this be on top if you want to showcase that, or you could have this be on top. Your choice, however you’re going to do it. Pay attention when you take the snap off the thing but basically I’m going to sew it where that hole is exposed because that’s where it snaps in. And we’re going to take our needle and thread and it just has these holes in there and I’m just gonna, I’ve got it knotted this double threaded double knotted, and I’m gonna do, be careful when you pull I’ve broken several threads tying on snaps because it’s just a really sharp metal. So I did like three and I’m going to push the metal behind so I’m primed for the next spot and I’m just working around the holes of this snap.
Notice I used the same color thread so you can’t see if I don’t feel like making my stitches beautiful. It doesn’t really matter you’re not going to notice them. Pushing the needle behind again to get where the next hole is. Now, I just did 2 snaps on the 1, but if you want it to not pucker at all you could do one here one in the middle and one on the end. Totally your choice, and then we’re going to the last hole, so push it through, and then we’re going to tie it off. I like to do everything twice, so twisting twice. Ok, so you do that the same for the next 1 or 2 if you’re doing one in the middle as well.
And then we’re going to do the snap for the other side. So make sure the snap you can see where it’s raised and that’s where it’s gonna go in. Line it up on the other side so that oh, you know I had it wrong, so you’re gonna put it here. So just pretend to close it and that way you don’t have to use a seam wripper. Sew those on. We’ll come back when those are all sewn on. There it is, once again the size of your yarn totally changes your project by like an inch. It’s a big difference. And you choose 2 or 3 snaps and it’s a really fast project I hope you enjoy. Please subscribe.